Fabric grain is a term that refers to the direction in which the threads are arranged in a particular fabric. It will determine how a fabric will react, drape or hang. Understanding fabric grain will help you to ensure your fabric projects are a success!
The types and terms for fabric grains are fairly easy to commit to memory
There are 3 basic types of fabric grain:
- Crosswise: These threads run perpendicular to the edge of the fabric. This means that as the fabric is being unrolled from a bolt, it is the edge running up and down. These are also known as ‘weft’ threads.
- Lengthwise: These treads are running the entire length of a fabric, and are parallel to the selvedge of it.
- Bias: This type of fabric grain takes a 45-degree angle to the length and cross grains of a fabric on its bolt. These are also known as ‘warp threads’. The bias provides a bit more stretch in woven fabrics. It will behave differently than other fabrics.
- Note: Both the lengthwise and crosswise fabric grains can be referred to as ‘straight grain’ or straight-of-grain.
- A fabric’s selvage is the bound edging lining the outermost lengthwise grain. It is formed when the weft threads change direction
Once you have a handle on the grains of a fabric and how they are arranged, know that all fabric types also behave differently. There are varying levels of ‘give’ and stretch in all fabrics, making it important to know what kind is ideal for what type of project. Example: you want a soft fabric with a little bit of stretch when making a skirt.
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Post by J&O Fabrics
