October 2006

Easy Stitch ‘n Save by McCall’s Pattern 3710

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Now that you have the supplies listed in Lesson 1, we are going to learn how to pick an appropriate pattern for a beginning sewer. Clothing patterns provide detailed instructions to properly construct a garment. Patterns such as Vogue, McCall’s, Simplicity and Butterick come in various sizes and are typically carried at fabric stores. Since this lesson is for sewing beginners please start with a simple and easy pattern. If you pick an easy pattern (sometimes they are labeled easy), chances are you will not become overwhelmed and frustrated.

Shopping for a Pattern:
While shopping for patterns, make sure to get your correct size.
J&O Fabric Store Tip: Patterns typically run small. Don’t assume that the same size clothing you wear in ready-made clothing will be the same size when using a pattern. Pay close attention to what size you will need based on your true measurements. Even if off the rack you’re an 8, you may be a 14 or 16 in a pattern.

On the back of the pattern there is a list of sizes that correspond with various body measurements that helps determine which size pattern you will use. If you don’t know your measurements refer to Lesson One. If your measurements do not correspond exactly with a particular size, don’t worry as you’re one of many. If the pattern you picked out is for making a skirt, use your waist measurement as the determining factor in selecting a size. If you’re making a top, use your bust measurement. If you have decided not to make clothing, there are plenty of patterns available for accessories like handbags as well as home decor items such as draperies, slipcovers, valances and more.

On the back of the pattern envelope most patterns have. . .

1. The notions you will need, i.e, thread, buttons, zippers, etc.

2. The types of fabric that work best with the pattern.

3. The amount of fabric you will need based on the fabric’s width, e.g., 45″, 54″ or 60″.

Shopping for Fabric:

Some garments will require interfacing or lining. Interfacing is a material that gives fabric body. Mostly used in collars and the cuffs of sleeves, interfacing keeps fabric from stretching out of place.

Dress fabric is available in 45 and 60 inch widths. Occasionally you may see 54″, which is standard for decorative fabrics. Since you are making your first garment, getting a little extra doesn’t hurt. It is better to have a little extra fabric than to not have enough.

When purchasing your pattern look at the fabrics the pattern suggests. Make it easy on yourself and stay away from “difficult” fabrics such as knits (t-shirt fabric or sweatshirt material), and slippery fabrics like satins, georgette, crepe, challis, etc. Try to stick to solid, lightweight materials such as lightweight twill, denim, cotton and cotton blends. Browse through J&O Fabrics’ Poly Lin selection for a material that is versatile and easy to handle. Fabrics with patterns – such as plaids or stripes – will make your project a bit more difficult because the design will have to be matched together precisely between two or more pieces (as in wallpaper). In addition, try to stay away from fabrics that have an obvious nap; for example, corduroys and velours. If fabrics with an obvious nap are not layed in the same direction, your garment will look as if you used two different colored fabrics. So for now, leave the “difficult” fabrics alone.

After you have purchased your easy pattern, and you’re bubbling with anticipation to get to the final result, choose from the illustration which garment you plan to make and circle it. Most patterns come with two or more similar styles marked A, B or C. You want to be very clear as to not cut out the wrong pieces.

Next open the pattern packet and take out the first sheet of instructions. Most patterns have drawings of both the completed garment and its various components. Look for the section of the instructions that are specific to the garment you plan to construct. In this section it will say “use pieces. . .” and then list the numbers. Circle this or highlight so you won’t forget.

Cutting the Pattern:

Now you’re ready to take out the pattern. Look for the numbered pieces you need for your garment and cut around the vicinity of the pattern pieces. Don’t cut on the lines yet.

J&O Fabric Store Tip:The scissors that are used to cut only fabric can also be used to cut pattern paper because it’s tissue.

Once you have all the pieces you need, fold the rest of the pattern and stuff it back into the envelope (if you can, lol). For organizational purposes, it would be a good idea to store used patterns in ziplock bags.

Take the pieces and have fun fitting them around yourself. Double check that the size you chose is the best fit. Once you are sure the garment will fit, be very careful and cut the piece exactly on the line. Don’t worry if you mess up, just repair the cut with scotch tape.

Once the correct pattern pieces are cut out, it’s time to work with your fabric and all the materials from the supply list in Lesson 1.

Up next is Part 2 of “Working From a Pattern”. Have your fabric picked out with all your supplies and notions. Until next time!

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