February 2007
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McCall’s Easy Stitch & Save Pattern 3710
Lesson 1 “How To Start Sewing”
Lesson 2 “Working from a Pattern”
Lesson 3 “Working from a Pattern 2”
Lesson 4 “Using a Sewing Machine”
Lesson 5 “Constructing a Garment Part 1”
Now that we’ve had our little “pep” talk in Lesson 5, we’re moving forward with confidence in “Constructing a Garment Part 2” For the next two lessons we’ll go step by step in constructing “McCall’s Easy Stitch and Save” Pattern 3710. If you’ve been following this blog using a different pattern, from here on out you’re on your own. Look up unfamiliar terms from the glossary links provided in lesson 5. Feel free to follow your gut instincts if the directions don’t make sense to you. Don’t be afraid to mess up because seams aren’t permanent, they can be taken out! Good Luck!
Garments are constructed from the inside out. All the strings and seams will be hidden once you turn the garment right side out. The beauty in working with fabric is that its a textile, it moves and drapes, can be folded, twisted and tied; keep this in mind during construction.
There’s no rush to get your garment done quick. Take your time and use this as a learning experience. The following instructions in This Print are the exact directions from “McCall’s Easy Stitch and Save” Pattern 3710. Underneath them are explanations for a beginning sewer unfamiliar with pattern instructions.
1. Pockets and Side Seams
Baste a scrap of interfacing or fabric to WRONG SIDE of FRONT (7) under buttonhole position. Make buttonhole in front at position indicated.
After you sew on a scrap of fabric or interfacing, the first direction is to make a buttonhole on piece 7, which is the front panel of the skirt. Look for transferred marks to know exactly where to place the buttonhole.
How to Make a Buttonhole on a 4-step machine
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How to make a buttonhole will differ according to your machine, check your instruction manual for specific instructions.
On the Kenmore Model 15408, switch the presser foot to the button foot. There is a lever to pull up to detach the presser foot located directly behind the needle. Snap the button foot on.
The length knob can be between 0.25-1 and the width knob can be at 5. Later you can experiment with the length and width until you reach a setting you like. There should be enough space in between the buttonhole to cut with a seam ripper.
On a scrap piece of fabric, with the needle up, turn the stitch setting to 1 for the buttonhole. Stitch. With the needle up, turn the stitch setting to 2 and stitch 3 or 4 times. Next, again with the needle up, turn the stitch setting to step 3 to the other end of the buttonhole. Last turn back the stitch setting to 2/4 and stitch 3 or 4 times. Remove your piece and attempt to cut a small slit in between the button hole stitches with a seam ripper, and you’re done!
Once you’ve practiced and you feel confident with your buttonholes, line up fabric under foot and make a buttonhole!
With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, stitch POCKET (8) to side edges of front and BACK (9), taking up a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward pockets. Pin back to front at sides, matching notches and circles. Pin pocket edges together.
Right sides together means the side of fabric showing once your garment is completed. This is stated just so you know how to orient the pockets on the front and back panels. See the illustration above for a clear picture. Stitch pockets to garment. Basically seperate your pocket cutouts (8) and stitch one pocket flap to one end and then stitch another pocket flap to the other end. Repeat this on piece 7.
On RIGHT side, stitch from lower edge to lower circle and continue around pocket to upper edge.
On LEFT side, stitch from square to lower circle and continue around pocket to upper edge.
On RIGHT and LEFT sides, stitch from upper circle to upper edge, stitching 1/4″ from seam as illustrated.
Clip back seam allowances below pockets.
Press side seams open.
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Pin the right and left sides of your garment together with the pockets facing out like ears. On the left side of the skirt, stitch from the square (beginning of split in skirt) all the way up past the pocket then back down around the pocket and stitch up to the top. While stitching, remember that the seam allowance is 5/8″ always unless stated. The stated seam allowance for the pocket is 3/8″. Remember to backstitch at the very beginning and very end of each stitch so your seam won’t unravel.
Do the same on the right side except start from the bottom. Clip the seam allowances right below the pocket so that they will fold out. Press the seam allowances outwards as in the photo above.
Turn pockets toward front and press.
Baste upper edge of pockets to front. (Pockets will be held
in place by casing.)
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On the panel iron the pockets toward the front of the skirt. You don’t want your pockets to be facing in the wrong direction, it’ll be hard to fit your hands if the pocket is backwards. If your having a hard time figuring out which side is the front, turn your garmant inside out to make a better determination. Baste, meaning a wide length stitch, the top of the pockets so the pockets will stay in the right direction.
At this point your pockets and side seams should be sewn together. Turn the skirt inside out to check the progress of your garment and make sure you didn’t sew the pockets shut or anything. Iron around the pockets and seams to make sure they look all right. For the next lesson we’ll finish the garment with the casing for the drawstring and the hem. Until next time.
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