When we think about African fabric design, rarely do we as consumers give much thought as to the history, craft, and meaning behind the symbols, patterns, or design elements we see. Instead we ‘ooh‘ and ‘aah‘ at the bright colors and creative print, thinking about what we can make with this, what we can do with that . But until we have the opportunity to see its manifestation from concept to completion, we will never really appreciate the finished textile that seems to silently whisper…i am special, buy me!
To bring the point home. We will focus our attention on one fabric in particular. Her name is Indigo cloth, and though her traditional weaving is not as popular as it was a decade ago, she can still be found from the organized guilds of Tunisia and the dyeing pits of Kano in Northern Nigeria, to the cloth makers of the Kasai region and the Aloro of western Africa who use a process called adire eleso under the protection of the Yoruba spirit Iya Mapo to create her. The art of cultivating, dyeing, and designing Indigo cloth is as much a journey into the process as it is into the fascinating history of the many sub-cultures that make up Africa herself.
Traditionally signified as a textile of wealth, abundance and fertility… indigo cloth, with its rich blue color and symbolic cream designs displayed in an array of meaningful patterns signifying everything from historic events to a societal icon, can now be seen adorning everyone from Africa’s political elite to Europe’s supermodels of the fashion catwalks thanks to flattery in the form of synthetic imitations. And though first looks will show a reflection almost as authentic, there is still something to be said in the sewing of finely detailed patterns onto cloth then dying with the specially prepared tea leaves, or using cassava paste to paint repeated abstractions onto the cloth then beating with a wooden stick until bright and glossy. With these methods imposed, the final stage of the process yields results so patiently crafted, so beautifully designed, is it any wonder she has been sought after in remote African villages and taken center stage in some of the worlds most notable museum exhibits.
So the next time a traditional African fabric captures your attention, especially in the form of an Indigo tie dye (adire eleso), stop and reflect on the roots of her journey and the story her weaves do tell.
