In the world of eco-friendly dyeing, use of natural dyes and is not always enough to ensure its benefits over harsher, chemical based dyeing techniques. From the dye source, to the final step of color retention, much can occur in the manufacturing process that environmentally conscious consumers need to be aware of before purchasing what is considered to be a ‘safe’ fabric.
There are two types of dyes mainly used to add color to fabrics, natural and synthetic. Natural dyes are made from either plant, animal, vegetable, or mineral sources. The most common of these natural coloring agents include cochineal, lac, logwood, madder, indigo, munjeet, osage orange, brazilwood, fustic, quercitron, pomegranate, cutch, tannin, beet, and various berries. Like anything, there are pro’s and con’s to using natural sources for dyeing. In regards to the natural sources mentioned, while they contain no synthetic chemicals and are therefore gentler on the skin (and fibers), they are not as colorfast and therefore tend to fade faster than synthetic chrome based dyes.
The other type of dye is a synthetic. Human-made organic (synthetic) dyes have been around since the 1800’s with one of the first documented being a dye called mauveine discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1865. Since then, synthetic dyes have replaced the use of traditionally natural dyes on a more general scale because they offer more color options, retain their color fastness longer, and are simply easier and cheaper to produce. The con’s with synthetics is that not only is the dye stuff chemically based, but if a mordant is not already added to the dye (creating a chrome dye), then it has to be added in order for the dye to adhere to the fabric. Though this mordant improves the fastness of the dye against water, light and perspiration, this same substance is often times made of a heavy metals that are toxic to humans and the environment in and of itself. Chrome, aka potassium dichromate or potassium bichromate, is one such mordant and a widely known human carcinogen. It has also been known to cause cancer and even death to people and plants who have been exposed to it. This leads me back to the point about naturally dyed fabric labels not always being enough to go on when making fabric decisions. Just as the synthetic dyes need a mordant to help ‘seal’ the color into the fiber, so do naturally dyed fabrics. Since the mordant is applied after the dying process, the fabric may still be described as ‘naturally dyed’ and be correct since it is not the dye, but the mordant that is not natural. Now the fabric on a whole is no longer really eco-friendly as a result.
Luckily, there are some other alternative applications that reflect the more environmentally safe concept we desire when it comes to making eco-friendly fabric purchases. There is a mordant called Alum that is a relatively safe alternative to chrome, and is often the mordant of choice when it comes to use with natural dyes. It is less harmful to the environment, yet still allows the dye to stick to the fabric as intended. In Japan, soymilk is used as a traditional binding and sizing agent, making the whole dyeing process much gentler on the environment as a whole.
One thing to keep in mind when making your eco-friendly fabric purchase is that there are pro’s and con’s to everything, even under the ‘Go Green’ umbrella. Research as much of the manufacturing process as possible from crop to final bolt if can, then decide for yourself if you are comfortable enough with the what you have discovered to purchase the goods. Natural is almost always better, but it’s best to be informed!
Hi, great article. Happy Holidays to you and your family from our team! Have a great New Year as well! Anyway… slick blog… I’m subscribed to your feed now so I’ll check in more often!