In the world of eco-friendly dyeing, there are several traditional and modern-day sources of coloring used to bring just the right energy and aura to a fabric. And whether you are a do-it-youself kinda crafter or are content with purchasing your material already naturally dyed, here is a list of some of the more common plant, animal, vegetable and/or mineral agents for those vibrant yellows, burnt oranges, indigo blues and deep reds that call out to us from across the fabric isles.
Cochineal: The Dactylopius coccus more commonly known as the Cochineal, has been used for centuries by the Aztec and Maya people of Central and North America for its deep crimson, scarlet and other red dye extracted from the females and her eggs in a process that is not only delicate, but demanding as over 70,000 of these desert critters need to be killed to produce just one pound of dye. Though the use of the insect came to an almost abrupt stop as synthetic alternatives like alizarin crimson hit the market, recent years have seen a resurgence as more health concerns surfaced surrounding red dyes and its carcinogenic properties.
Lac: Lac refers to the scarlet colored resinous secretions produced by an assortment of plant sucking insects that are found on specific trees in various states in India, Thailand, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Laos, China and Mexico. The use of lac dye dates back to the ages of antiquity when it was also used in India as a skin cosmetic and in China as a dye for leather goods. In the medicinal world, lac carries hepatoprotecive and antiobesity properties which make it useful in healing the liver and controlling weight.
Logwood: Used well before the 1700’s up until the 1940’s, this black dye came from the Logwood tree found in Texas, Mexico, and South America. The Potawatomi Indians are most noted for its traditional use during the 18th Century. Later it was more commonly replaced by a less natural yet more feasible synthetic chrome dye.
Indigo: Used for centuries in India, Africa, and Asia, the deep blue color extracted from the Indigofera suffruticosa and Indigofera arrects plant was among one of the oldest dyes to be used for textile dyeing and printing. It’s rarity also made it quite valuable and a signifier of wealth in many cultures. Despite the use of the plant by traditional dyers in parts of West Africa still today, much of the indigo produced now is synthetic.
Madder: Primarily a European plant dye, the roots of the madder produce a beautiful yet finicky red dye that is known for its sensitivity to temperature and water mineral content.
Fustic: There are two types of Fustic, Old (Yellow wood) and Young (Venetian Sumac). While both were once primarily used by the U.S. military’s to create the beige/yellow colored khakis during World War I, they have since been replaced with modern day synthetic dyes.
Quercitron: Quercitron is a yellow dye that comes from the bark of the Eastern Black Oak found primarily in North America. The color is derived from shaving the exterior bark of the tree, exposing the inner, grinding it, and then mixing it with hot pressurized water to form the final colouring matter. It is usually used to dye wools a bright orange or yellow.
Cutch: Also known as Catechu, this dye is an extract of any of several species of Acacia plant found primarily in Australia. It is derived by boiling its wood in water and then using the resin for coloring. it creates a brownish-yellow dye that adheres well on wool, silk and cotton fibers.
Woad: Primarily a European plant dye, woad (Isatis tinctoria) produces its famous blue pigment from its leaves during a long yet worthwhile process that includes placing fresh leaves into a jar and filling it up with almost boiling water before sealing the lid and allowing it to color and produce little bubbles in the liquid. Alkali is added to the liquid and then the solution is shaken until it turns into a greenish color. The fabric is dyed greenish-yellow, but turns to blue when oxidation occurs. The dye chemical extracted from woad is indigo, the same dye extracted from “true indigo”, but in a lower concentration.
Weld: Primarily a European plant dye, weld has its origins in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean. The plant produces an instant lemon colored yellow from its flower spikes and is harvested by cutting and binding the flowering stalks together after the flowers were nearly finished blooming. Most of the dye is contained in the seeds and when combined with the blue dye of the Woad plant, it creates a beautiful green dye.
Saffron: Used in India, China, and from Mediterranean in the west to Kashmir in the east , Saffron has been used as a fabric dye, fragrance, seasoning and medicine for more than 3,000 years. Carrying both religious and hierarchical significance, the flowering plant was traditionally used as a clothing dye reserved for nobility and in ritualised events. Though its vibrant orange-yellow hue quickly fades to a pale yellow without a mordant to create a fastness, if dyed repeatedly, the fabric will turn to a rich shade of red. Because of its cost, commercial dyers are researching the gardenia fruit as an economically saffron-dye substitute.
While all the dyes listed stem from a natural plant, animal, and/or vegetable source, some will retain their color fastness once applied to fabric while other will not without an added agent such as a mordant to help hold the color onto the fibers and prevent fading over time. Wool and silk are two of the easier fabrics for application without the assistance of an adhering agent.
In addition to our list of popular natural eco-friendly dyes, we also wanted to share our list of pro’s and con’s of ‘going natural’.
Natural Dyed Fabric : Pro’s
1. renewable natural resource/ eco-friendly
2. more harmonious with our body chemistry
3. less likely to cause allergic reactions
4. array of colors available
5. carrying on of traditional/ cultural practices
6. no harmful synthetic chemicals
Natural Dyed Fabric: Con’s
1. Require large quantities in comparison to chemical dyes.
2. Though natural dye extracts can dye larger quanties, they can be expensive.
3. Takes longer to dye fabric and often more attempts to get desired color.
4. Natural dyeing may be more costly – but the main cost is your time if you grow your own plant dyes.
Check out our selection of eco-friendly fabrics here:
