Sewing Lesson Class Three: Working From A Pattern

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Now that you have your fabric and a pattern selected with the correct pieces cut out, you are ready to begin actual construction of the garment! In this lesson, we will be cutting the fabric into the garment’s various pieces and learning how to transfer pattern symbols.

Go to the first page of your pattern instruction sheet and look for the diagram that illustrates how the pattern should be layed out on the fabric. The diagram will illustrate the layout for both 45 and 60 inch wide fabric.
J&O Fabric store Tip: In some cases there may be a different layout for larger sizes, so be careful to look over the diagram carefully and read the instructions. See Example below:

Pick which side of the fabric you want to use. Make sure the side of the fabric that you choose is facing outward.
J & O Fabric Store Tip: Use chalk to help you remember which side of fabric you are using.

Usually fabric is sold folded lengthwise on a bolt. However, sometimes fabric can be on a roll. If your fabric came on a roll, fold the fabric evenly along the length.

Step 1: Lay your pattern on the fabric exactly as described, paying close attention to the direction and side of pattern paper. Make sure your pattern is layed out according to the fold end and the selvage end (precut ends from manufacturer).

Step2: Now that you have the pattern layed out and all the pattern pieces are in the correct direction and on the correct side you can begin to pin the pattern to the material with the pin facing in. Keep in mind that you will be cutting around the pattern, so be sure that no pins are sticking out. See below.

For pieces that aren’t pinned on the fold you will have to determine the grainline. A grainline is the direction of fibers in a woven fabric. By determining the grainline you make sure all fibers in your garment are going in the same direction. Doing this will alleviate any unwanted zigzags in the texture of your garment.

For this particular pattern we need to determine the grainline that runs along the length of the fabric. Most patterns will have a straight line with an arrow for this purpose. If you’re using a dressmakers’ table, adjust the fabric so that the fold runs along a straight line. Use a tape measure to make sure that the line on the pattern piece is parallel to a straight line on the board. See the example below.

Step 3: Neatly cut around the pattern. Where you see a notch (triangle) cut a notch outward in the fabric. See below. Another way would be to snip inwards at the notch, but for beginners, cutting outwards makes the notch easy to recognize.

When done cutting the pieces out, leave the pattern pinned to the cut fabric.

Once you have your fabric cut out pay attention to other details that may be on your pattern paper, such as squares or circles. Later these symbols will help to assist in actual construction. You will need to transfer these symbols directly to your fabric. To do this you will need tracing paper and a tracing wheel.

Step 4: Choose a color from your tracing paper packet that is in contrast to your fabric. You want to be able to see the mark. Position the tracing paper so that a mark will appear on the inner side of your fabric. Using your tracing wheel, press hard as you trace to make sure your mark transfers.

Once you have your fab
ric cut out and all symbols properly transferred, you will be ready to get on the sewing machine!

Until next time!