Sewing Lesson Class Five: Constructing a Garment

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Lesson 5: Constructing a Garment Part 1

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Now that you know how to operate a sewing machine, we’re ready to piece our “easy” garment together. But before we sew, below are some key points to keep in mind before actual construction. Lesson 5 ” Constructing a Garment, Part 1″ is on understanding pattern instructions and the beginnings of piecing a garment together.

Understanding Pattern Directions

Before beginning to sew, read over the entire pattern instructions thoroughly. When working from a pattern, there’s an assumption that you know how to sew, so the directions may be filled with unfamiliar “sewing” vocabular. Such terms as “baste” and “staystitching” may be confusing for a novice. Following are two links to check out if you run into some unknown terms in your pattern instructions.

Sewing Terms
Sewing Dictionary

In addition check out
Threads Magazine Tips and Tricks to Pattern Layout

While reading the directions, identify what pieces are being referred to where. Know what the directions mean by “RIGHT SIDE” or “LEFT SIDE” or “FRONT SIDE”. The pattern may not necessarily say “take piece 8 and attach to piece 7″ The language in a pattern switches from referring to numbered pieces to referring to named parts of a garment. When you begin piecing your garment together, keep a seam ripper handy to correct any mistakes. There are shortcuts for a lot of specific directions given in pattern instructions. Before adopting shortcuts completely understand how to do it the right way first.

Sewing is not a speed race, take your time and be careful if you want your garment to come out right. Don’t worry how long it may take to finish, the goal is to learn, so that when you graduate to a more complicated pattern you’ll have the basics perfected.

Piecing a Garment Together

For a new sewer, if you’re serious about learning how to sew, you must begin to start visualizing how clothes are constructed. When you understand how clothes are constructed its easier to understand pattern directions. Carefully examine some of your own purchased clothing; turn it inside out and look at how the garment is constructed and pieced together. Look at what kind of stitching is used where and what other materials form the clothing’s base. Take notice of materials like boning, interfacing, lining, elastic, casing etc. Appreciate the complexity of a well made garment. With manufactured goods you may notice “serged” edges where the edge of the fabric is stitched to stop unraveling. This type of stitching calls for a special machine known as a serger or an overlock machine. If you decide to become serious about sewing may want to invest in one.

Piecing a garment together isn’t just pushing the fabric through a sewing machine. Constructing a garment is an art, it involves pinning, pressing, snipping and understanding that your creation is to be draped over a mobile three dimensional surface with curves, bulges and bumps. As a beginner, we’re sure you’ll be happy if the garment just simply stays together. However, appreciating the complexity of making clothes is good to keep in mind throughout your explorations in “sewing”. Some people may start with a pattern and then alter it to fit a body better, or use the pattern as a base to create something else.

Pinning

When piecing your garment together you may be instructed to pin pieces before stitching or pressing. When pinning, line up the fabric edges and pin. If your fabric pieces have bubbles don’t worry, a body will fill out the bubbles. Arrange the pins horizontal in relation to which way the fabric will feed into the machine. See the image above. You don’t want the machine needle to break on a straight pin and fly into your face. If your sewing fast and you forget a straight pin is coming up, have the pin turned so that the needle will sew over the pin instead of jamming into it.

Pressing

Whenever sewing have a iron and ironing board set up. You’ll notice you may be instructed to pres
s. The key to a good looking finished garment is pressing. Always press your seams when sewing. Doing this makes construction easier and helps shape the fabric to move and fall as you wish.

Now that you have reviewed your pattern instructions entirely, next is “Constructing a Garment Part 2 . In the next lesson we’ll go through step by step constructing “McCall’s Easy Stitch and Save” Pattern 3710.