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February 2007
How to Start Sewing
Lesson 6: Constructing a Garment Part 2McCall's Easy Stitch & Save Pattern 3710 Lesson 1 "How To Start Sewing"Lesson 2 "Working from a Pattern"Lesson 3 "Working from a Pattern 2"Lesson 4 "Using a Sewing Machine"Lesson 5 "Constructing a Garment Part 1"
Now that we've had our little "pep" talk in Lesson 5, we're moving forward with confidence in "Constructing a Garment Part 2" For the next two lessons we'll go step by step in constructing "McCall's Easy Stitch and Save" Pattern 3710. If you've been following this blog using a different pattern, from here on out you're on your own. Look up unfamiliar terms from the glossary links provided in lesson 5. Feel free to follow your gut instincts if the directions don't make sense to you. Don't be afraid to mess up because seams aren't permanent, they can be taken out! Good Luck! Garments are constructed from the inside out. All the strings and seams will be hidden once you turn the garment right side out. The beauty in working with fabric is that its a textile, it moves and drapes, can be folded, twisted and tied; keep this in mind during construction. There's no rush to get your garment done quick. Take your time and use this as a learning experience. The following instructions in This Print are the exact directions from "McCall's Easy Stitch and Save" Pattern 3710. Underneath them are explanations for a beginning sewer unfamiliar with pattern instructions. 1. Pockets and Side Seams
Baste a scrap of interfacing or fabric to WRONG SIDE of FRONT (7) under buttonhole position. Make buttonhole in front at position indicated. After you sew on a scrap of fabric or interfacing, the first direction is to make a buttonhole on piece 7, which is the front panel of the skirt. Look for transferred marks to know exactly where to place the buttonhole.
How to Make a Buttonhole on a 4-step machineHow to make a buttonhole will differ according to your machine, check your instruction manual for specific instructions. On the Kenmore Model 15408, switch the presser foot to the button foot. There is a lever to pull up to detach the presser foot located directly behind the needle. Snap the button foot on. The length knob can be between 0.25-1 and the width knob can be at 5. Later you can experiment with the length and width until you reach a setting you like. There should be enough space in between the buttonhole to cut with a seam ripper. On a scrap piece of fabric, with the needle up, turn the stitch setting to 1 for the buttonhole. Stitch. With the needle up, turn the stitch setting to 2 and stitch 3 or 4 times. Next, again with the needle up, turn the stitch setting to step 3 to the other end of the buttonhole. Last turn back the stitch setting to 2/4 and stitch 3 or 4 times. Remove your piece and attempt to cut a small slit in between the button hole stitches with a seam ripper, and you're done! Once you've practiced and you feel confident with your buttonholes, line up fabric under foot and make a buttonhole! With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, stitch POCKET (8) to side edges of front and BACK (9), taking up a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward pockets. Pin back to front at sides, matching notches and circles. Pin pocket edges together.
Right sides together means the side of fabric showing once your garment is completed. This is stated just so you know how to orient the pockets on the front and back panels. See the illustration above for a clear picture. Stitch pockets to garment. Basically seperate your pocket cutouts (8) and stitch one pocket flap to one end and then stitch another pocket flap to the other end. Repeat this on piece 7. On RIGHT side, stitch from lower edge to lower circle and continue around pocket to upper edge.
On LEFT side, stitch from square to lower circle and continue around pocket to upper edge.
On RIGHT and LEFT sides, stitch from upper circle to upper edge, stitching 1/4" from seam as illustrated.
Clip back seam allowances below pockets.
Press side seams open.Pin the right and left sides of your garment together with the pockets facing out like ears. On the left side of the skirt, stitch from the square (beginning of split in skirt) all the way up past the pocket then back down around the pocket and stitch up to the top. While stitching, remember that the seam allowance is 5/8" always unless stated. The stated seam allowance for the pocket is 3/8". Remember to backstitch at the very beginning and very end of each stitch so your seam won't unravel. Do the same on the right side except start from the bottom. Clip the seam allowances right below the pocket so that they will fold out. Press the seam allowances outwards as in the photo above.
Turn pockets toward front and press.
Baste upper edge of pockets to front. (Pockets will be held
in place by casing.)On the panel iron the pockets toward the front of the skirt. You don't want your pockets to be facing in the wrong direction, it'll be hard to fit your hands if the pocket is backwards. If your having a hard time figuring out which side is the front, turn your garmant inside out to make a better determination. Baste, meaning a wide length stitch, the top of the pockets so the pockets will stay in the right direction. At this point your pockets and side seams should be sewn together. Turn the skirt inside out to check the progress of your garment and make sure you didn't sew the pockets shut or anything. Iron around the pockets and seams to make sure they look all right. For the next lesson we'll finish the garment with the casing for the drawstring and the hem. Until next time.
Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
October 2006
How to Start Sewing
Lesson 5: Constructing a Garment Part 1 Lesson 1 "How To Start Sewing"
Now that you know how to operate a sewing machine, we're ready to piece our "easy" garment together. But before we sew, below are some key points to keep in mind before actual construction. Lesson 5 " Constructing a Garment, Part 1" is on understanding pattern instructions and the beginnings of piecing a garment together. Understanding Pattern DirectionsBefore beginning to sew, read over the entire pattern instructions thoroughly. When working from a pattern, there's an assumption that you know how to sew, so the directions may be filled with unfamiliar "sewing" vocabular. Such terms as "baste" and "staystitching" may be confusing for a novice. Following are two links to check out if you run into some unknown terms in your pattern instructions. Sewing TermsSewing DictionaryIn addition check out Threads Magazine Tips and Tricks to Pattern LayoutWhile reading the directions, identify what pieces are being referred to where. Know what the directions mean by "RIGHT SIDE" or "LEFT SIDE" or "FRONT SIDE". The pattern may not necessarily say "take piece 8 and attach to piece 7" The language in a pattern switches from referring to numbered pieces to referring to named parts of a garment. When you begin piecing your garment together, keep a seam ripper handy to correct any mistakes. There are shortcuts for a lot of specific directions given in pattern instructions. Before adopting shortcuts completely understand how to do it the right way first. Sewing is not a speed race, take your time and be careful if you want your garment to come out right. Don't worry how long it may take to finish, the goal is to learn, so that when you graduate to a more complicated pattern you'll have the basics perfected. Piecing a Garment TogetherFor a new sewer, if you're serious about learning how to sew, you must begin to start visualizing how clothes are constructed. When you understand how clothes are constructed its easier to understand pattern directions. Carefully examine some of your own purchased clothing; turn it inside out and look at how the garment is constructed and pieced together. Look at what kind of stitching is used where and what other materials form the clothing's base. Take notice of materials like boning, interfacing, lining, elastic, casing etc. Appreciate the complexity of a well made garment. With manufactured goods you may notice "serged" edges where the edge of the fabric is stitched to stop unraveling. This type of stitching calls for a special machine known as a serger or an overlock machine. If you decide to become serious about sewing may want to invest in one. Piecing a garment together isn't just pushing the fabric through a sewing machine. Constructing a garment is an art, it involves pinning, pressing, snipping and understanding that your creation is to be draped over a mobile three dimensional surface with curves, bulges and bumps. As a beginner, we're sure you'll be happy if the garment just simply stays together. However, appreciating the complexity of making clothes is good to keep in mind throughout your explorations in "sewing". Some people may start with a pattern and then alter it to fit a body better, or use the pattern as a base to create something else. PinningWhen piecing your garment together you may be instructed to pin pieces before stitching or pressing. When pinning, line up the fabric edges and pin. If your fabric pieces have bubbles don't worry, a body will fill out the bubbles. Arrange the pins horizontal in relation to which way the fabric will feed into the machine. See the image above. You don't want the machine needle to break on a straight pin and fly into your face. If your sewing fast and you forget a straight pin is coming up, have the pin turned so that the needle will sew over the pin instead of jamming into it.
Pressing Whenever sewing have a iron and ironing board set up. You'll notice you may be instructed to press. The key to a good looking finished garment is pressing. Always press your seams when sewing. Doing this makes construction easier and helps shape the fabric to move and fall as you wish.
Now that you have reviewed your pattern instructions entirely, next is "Constructing a Garment Part 2 . In the next lesson we'll go through step by step constructing "McCall's Easy Stitch and Save" Pattern 3710.
Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
October 2006
How to Start Sewing
Lesson 4:
A Quick Guide to Purchasing and Using a Sewing Machine Click for Lessons 1, 2 & 3
In the past three lessons we learned how to pick the right fabric for a given project, how to choose a pattern for a beginner sewer and read and cut out garment pieces using the instructions on a pattern. This lesson will be a tutorial on purchasing a sewing machine and learning how to properly use a sewing machine. Purchasing A Sewing MachineIf you're interested in buying a new sewing machine, for a beginner, a reasonable amount to spend would be around $100. New sewing machines can cost anywhere from $80 to $8000! loaded with a plethora of bells and whistles catered to specific needs. With the selection out there, if you don't know much about sewing machines, buying one can be pretty overwhelming. There's electronic sewing machines, computerized, basic computerized, mechanical and embroidery sewing machines. Feel free to do research on the internet and ask around for advice on what brand and what model would be the best for you to buy. Singer seems to be the most popular and well-known brand, but that doesn't mean other brands aren't just as good if not better. J&O Fabric Store Tip: Did you know that the Sears' Kenmore brand Sewing Machine is actually made by Singer?J&O Fabric Store Tip Exclusive: Used Sewing MachinesAnother option for purchasing a sewing machine would be to purchase one that is used. Almost any garage sale and about every single flea market across the country will have at least 1 or 2 old Singer sewing machines for sale ranging from $5- $60. You could even look on Ebay for a used machine. Older machines that are made of all metal run as well as modern industrial machines, meaning they have the ability to sew through several layers of fabric. For a beginner your best bet would be to purchase a used machine, so that if for some strange reason you loose interest, you wouldn't have invested a lot of money.If you already have an old sewing machine in your home and it needs repairs, go to your local Sew and Vac. The cost may vary depending on what needs to be repaired. Most used sewing machines will come with the original Instruction manual but if yours does not, go to the manufacturer's website and see if they have manuals that can be downloaded. You can also shop on Ebay for old sewing machine manuals. Using A Sewing MachineOnce you have a sewing machine, look over the sewing machine's instruction manual to familiarize yourself with the various functions and parts. For this section it will be very important to go through the instruction manual of your particular machine to figure out the specifics of how your machine works. Not every machine is made the same so the instructions for how to load the bobbin and thread the machine will vary. The following tutorial is a step by step guide specific to a Kenmore Model 15408. Assuming the machine is plugged in and turned on, the first step in operating a sewing machine is to thread the bobbin. Threading the BobbinLook at the first two pictures below. Place thread on spool located on the top right of the machine. Wrap thread around tension nob and place thread end through one top hole on a empty bobbin. Pull a few inches through and place over bobbin winding spindle. Pull handwheel out so the needle will not move while threading the bobbin. While holding the end of the loose thread, press foot pedal a little to get thread securely on the bobbin. Once the thread is secure, cut excess thread and continue to press the foot pedal until the bobbin is full. The machine should stop automatically. Cut threaded bobbin from thread spool. Look at bottom two pictures above. Remove bobbin case from bottom machine gears. Drop the threaded bobbin into bobbin case making sure to feed thread end through small slit. Reload the bobbin in bottom gears. Be sure the bobbin case is secure, it should only move a little. Leave a little string loose. Once the machine is operating the string will automatically feed upwards to form a stitch. Threading the Sewing MachineOnce your bobbin is in place the next step is to thread the machine. Threading the machine correctly is the most important aspect in operating a sewing machine. Some machines will still operate if threaded wrong but most will jam up and fail to operate. Place thread on spool and follow thread guides marked 1,2,3 and 4. Don't forget to thread the small hook directly above the needle on the left before threading the eye. See pictures below. There are various sizes in machine sewing needles ranging from 11-16, a size eleven being for light materials such as chiffon to a size 16 which can sew leather. Make sure the size needle you're using corresponds to the type of fabric you're sewing. Refer to your instruction manual for specifics. On the knobs facing you, select a basic straight stitch and place the width knob somewhere in the middle around 3. For more information on width and length options refer to your instruction manual. Next wind handwheel towards you until the needle is at its highest position. Pull the handwheel towards you a few times until you see the bobbin thread feeding from underneath. Raise the presser foot and slide a piece of scrap fabric underneath. Be mindful of the plate diagram that reads 3/8 and 5/8. These measurements will be used later when constructing your garment. Drop presser foot down and begin stitching by pressing on the foot pedal. When you want to complete a stitch press reverse button and stitch, then raise presser foot, slide fabric from underneath and slide excess thread over thread clipper. Practice running a few scraps through the machine until you get the hang of it. Next lesson we'll move on to actually sewing the garment together. Until next time! Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
October 2006
How to Start Sewing
Lesson 3: Working From a Pattern Continued
Click for Lessons 1 & 2
Now that you have your fabric and a pattern selected with the correct pieces cut out, you are ready to begin actual construction of the garment! In this lesson, we will be cutting the fabric into the garment's various pieces and learning how to transfer pattern symbols.
Go to the first page of your pattern instruction sheet and look for the diagram that illustrates how the pattern should be layed out on the fabric. The diagram will illustrate the layout for both 45 and 60 inch wide fabric.
J&O Fabric store Tip: In some cases there may be a different layout for larger sizes, so be careful to look over the diagram carefully and read the instructions. See Example below:
Pick which side of the fabric you want to use. Make sure the side of the fabric that you choose is facing outward.
J & O Fabric Store Tip: Use chalk to help you remember which side of fabric you are using.
Usually fabric is sold folded lengthwise on a bolt. However, sometimes fabric can be on a roll. If your fabric came on a roll, fold the fabric evenly along the length.
Step 1: Lay your pattern on the fabric exactly as described, paying close attention to the direction and side of pattern paper. Make sure your pattern is layed out according to the fold end and the selvage end (precut ends from manufacturer).
Step2: Now that you have the pattern layed out and all the pattern pieces are in the correct direction and on the correct side you can begin to pin the pattern to the material with the pin facing in. Keep in mind that you will be cutting around the pattern, so be sure that no pins are sticking out. See below.
  For pieces that aren't pinned on the fold you will have to determine the grainline. A grainline is the direction of fibers in a woven fabric. By determining the grainline you make sure all fibers in your garment are going in the same direction. Doing this will alleviate any unwanted zigzags in the texture of your garment. For this particular pattern we need to determine the grainline that runs along the length of the fabric. Most patterns will have a straight line with an arrow for this purpose. If you're using a dressmakers' table, adjust the fabric so that the fold runs along a straight line. Use a tape measure to make sure that the line on the pattern piece is parallel to a straight line on the board. See the example below.
Step 3: Neatly cut around the pattern. Where you see a notch (triangle) cut a notch outward in the fabric. See below. Another way would be to snip inwards at the notch, but for beginners, cutting outwards makes the notch easy to recognize.
When done cutting the pieces out, leave the pattern pinned to the cut fabric.
Once you have your fabric cut out pay attention to other details that may be on your pattern paper, such as squares or circles. Later these symbols will help to assist in actual construction. You will need to transfer these symbols directly to your fabric. To do this you will need tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
Step 4: Choose a color from your tracing paper packet that is in contrast to your fabric. You want to be able to see the mark. Position the tracing paper so that a mark will appear on the inner side of your fabric. Using your tracing wheel, press hard as you trace to make sure your mark transfers.
Once you have your fabric cut out and all symbols properly transferred, you will be ready to get on the sewing machine!
Until next time!
Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
October 2006
How to Start Sewing
Lesson 2: Working From a Pattern
Easy Stitch 'n Save by McCall's Pattern 3710
Now that you have the supplies listed in Lesson 1, we are going to learn how to pick an appropriate pattern for a beginning sewer. Clothing patterns provide detailed instructions to properly construct a garment. Patterns such as Vogue, McCall's, Simplicity and Butterick come in various sizes and are typically carried at fabric stores. Since this lesson is for sewing beginners please start with a simple and easy pattern. If you pick an easy pattern (sometimes they are labeled easy), chances are you will not become overwhelmed and frustrated. Shopping for a Pattern:While shopping for patterns, make sure to get your correct size.
J&O Fabric Store Tip: Patterns typically run small. Don't assume that the same size clothing you wear in ready-made clothing will be the same size when using a pattern. Pay close attention to what size you will need based on your true measurements. Even if off the rack you're an 8, you may be a 14 or 16 in a pattern.
On the back of the pattern there is a list of sizes that correspond with various body measurements that helps determine which size pattern you will use. If you don't know your measurements refer to Lesson One. If your measurements do not correspond exactly with a particular size, don't worry as you're one of many. If the pattern you picked out is for making a skirt, use your waist measurement as the determining factor in selecting a size. If you're making a top, use your bust measurement. If you have decided not to make clothing, there are plenty of patterns available for accessories like handbags as well as home decor items such as draperies, slipcovers, valances and more. On the back of the pattern envelope most patterns have. . . 1. The notions you will need, i.e, thread, buttons, zippers, etc. 2. The types of fabric that work best with the pattern. 3. The amount of fabric you will need based on the fabric's width, e.g., 45", 54" or 60". Shopping for Fabric:Some garments will require interfacing or lining. Interfacing is a material that gives fabric body. Mostly used in collars and the cuffs of sleeves, interfacing keeps fabric from stretching out of place. Dress fabric is available in 45 and 60 inch widths. Occasionally you may see 54", which is standard for decorative fabrics. Since you are making your first garment, getting a little extra doesn't hurt. It is better to have a little extra fabric than to not have enough. When purchasing your pattern look at the fabrics the pattern suggests. Make it easy on yourself and stay away from "difficult" fabrics such as knits (t-shirt fabric or sweatshirt material), and slippery fabrics like satins, georgette, crepe, challis, etc. Try to stick to solid, lightweight materials such as lightweight twill, denim, cotton and cotton blends. Browse through J&O Fabrics' Poly Lin selection for a material that is versatile and easy to handle. Fabrics with patterns - such as plaids or stripes - will make your project a bit more difficult because the design will have to be matched together precisely between two or more pieces (as in wallpaper). In addition, try to stay away from fabrics that have an obvious nap; for example, corduroys and velours. If fabrics with an obvious nap are not layed in the same direction, your garment will look as if you used two different colored fabrics. So for now, leave the "difficult" fabrics alone. After you have purchased your easy pattern, and you're bubbling with anticipation to get to the final result, choose from the illustration which garment you plan to make and circle it. Most patterns come with two or more similar styles marked A, B or C. You want to be very clear as to not cut out the wrong pieces. Next open the pattern packet and take out the first sheet of instructions. Most patterns have drawings of both the completed garment and its various components. Look for the section of the instructions that are specific to the garment you plan to construct. In this section it will say "use pieces. . ." and then list the numbers. Circle this or highlight so you won't forget. Cutting the Pattern: Now you're ready to take out the pattern. Look for the numbered pieces you need for your garment and cut around the vicinity of the pattern pieces. Don't cut on the lines yet.
J&O Fabric Store Tip:The scissors that are used to cut only fabric can also be used to cut pattern paper because it's tissue.Once you have all the pieces you need, fold the rest of the pattern and stuff it back into the envelope (if you can, lol). For organizational purposes, it would be a good idea to store used patterns in ziplock bags. Take the pieces and have fun fitting them around yourself. Double check that the size you chose is the best fit. Once you are sure the garment will fit, be very careful and cut the piece exactly on the line. Don't worry if you mess up, just repair the cut with scotch tape.
Once the correct pattern pieces are cut out, it's time to work with your fabric and all the materials from the supply list in Lesson 1.
Up next is Part 2 of "Working From a Pattern". Have your fabric picked out with all your supplies and notions. Until next time! Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
September 2006
How to Start Sewing
September is National Sewing Month!, and to celebrate J&O is bringing you Sewing 101! This blog is dedicated to all those who missed the era when sewing was taught in Home Ec. or to all those who haven't sewed since they had Home Ec. By learning how to sew and use a sewing machine you can open up a world of possibilities for expressing your creativity. There is nothing more wonderful then creating something yourself. Whether sewing for practical reasons, or as an art form, it can be a rewarding, positive experience.
Nowadays, sewing is a lost art that our fast-paced society with its high technology and cheap overseas labor is beginning to leave behind. But here at J&O, we're sewing enthusiasts and we're enthusiastic about anything you can do with fabric.
So, for all the "staple gun people" and "hot glue gun people" J&O is introducing you to another tool that is used to transform fabric.
Firstly, if you really want to learn how to sew and you're serious about it, rid your mind of preconceptions. Sewing is a skill and it's definitely not the simplest thing to do in the
world. Don't let the contestants on Project Runway let you think that you can whip up a haute couture gown in a day. It'll take time, energy and dedication to get good at sewing.
Following is a list of what you will need to start your first sewing project.
A Sewing Machine,
As a beginner you shouldn't pay any more than $100 for a sewing machine. Gradually as you get better and become more experienced you'll be able to make full use of the more expensive machines and all their extra gadgets. Right now they'll just confuse you and get in the way.
A tool kit/sewing box
Sewing boxes are really cute (and expensive) with all their compartments but a regular tool box will serve the same purpose just fine.
In your tool box you'll need. . .
Good Scissors
It's important to have a good pair of scissors that you only use for fabric. Paper and other household items will dull your scissors down and you'll have problems cutting.
Good Quality Thread
Save yourself the aggravation and DO NOT BUY CHEAP THREAD It'll unravel and it's not good for the sewing machine. It's better to pass up that 10 for $2 barrell and buy good quality thread.
Other items you can find in a Starter's Sewing Kit.
Tape measure, straight pins, sewing needles, sewing machine needles (size depends on your machine) seam ripper( you will need it!), extra bobbins, pin cushion and a needle threader
A good idea is to have a Dressmaker's cutting board, if you don't want to mess up your table.
A Simple Pattern
Pick a simple pattern based on your measurements. For help with your measurements follow this link Some suggestions would be Simplicity 4019,4039,4157,4126,4234
Don't attempt to make your first garment with expensive fabric. Something inexpensive, 100% cotton or a cotton blend that's easy to handle. No knits, velour, fleece, corduroy, satins or stretch fabrics for your first project. Some fabrics require more experience.
All right, got everything? For the next blog you'll just need your simple pattern based on your measurements and your good scissors. Stay tuned . . . cause we're all gonna learn how to sew!
Posts by J&O Fabrics StoreLabels: sewing blog
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