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Thursday, January 24, 2008

Black History Month Celebrated thru Fabric Textiles!

As February rolls in, so does Black History month. Americans young and old will celebrate the many contributions African-Americans past and present have brought to this country.


Reflections of their art, history and culture are reflected in almost every aspect of our society, from our infrastructures to our fashions. As, such, the J&O Family would like to take a moment to highlight some of the beautiful African fabric prints and textile designs, both modern and traditional, that are available for our fabulous customers right here at J&O

Kente Print












Africa has long been a fertile & creative source of fabric textile & design. One of the most widely known woven fabrics synonymous with the Ashanti people of Ghana, is kente. Kente cloth is a type of cotton fabric made of interwoven cloth strips. Authentic Kente was traditionally the cloth of kings, but over time, the use of this royal fabric became more widespread, becoming available across Ghana in its woven form, as well as in cotton print.


Kente is characterized by its multicolored patterns of complex designs, bright colors and geometric shapes. The sacred weft designs , called adweneasa, that are woven into each section of plain weave , are meant to convey the history, philosophy, ethics and moral values of both Ghana and African culture in general.


According to some tribes, weaving has many spiritual and mythical meanings behind it as well. One belief is that each stage of spinning and weaving thread is a symbolic analogy to human reproduction and resurrection. Therefore, the processes can only be done in daylight hours. To work at night would be to weave silence and darkness into the cloth.


The color of the woven fabric can also have some spiritual meaning as well. In one tribe, a white fabric used by healing women, is thought to be linked to water spirits. Although there are many meanings to the designs on the cloth, very few are directly represented on the cloth itself.


Check out our Kente prints here!

Check out our selection of African Fabrics here!


Mudcloth
Mudcloth is a hand-woven and hand-painted traditional textile craft originating in the Sahel region on West Africa. It is called "mudcloth" because of the use of natural pigments used in the painting process.


Traditional looms are used to weave thin strips of fabric that are then sewn together to create one large piece of cloth. The cloth is then ready to be dyed and painted. Various pigments are made from infusions of local leaves, roots, bark, and of course, mud. The plain cotton cloth is first soaked in an infusion of Acacia leaves to create the characteristic yellow background color. Then a variety of other natural dyes are used to paint on the cloth. The white tones are produced by using local soap to wash away the previous colors and expose the natural cotton underneath. Traditionally, mudcloth is decorated with many geometric designs, and rich earth-toned colors.
Within the last decade, we have seen the mix of modern influence on the traditional with the dying of the cloth in colors such as purple, pink, green and gold. This vibrant array offers a more diverse selection for our designers and artists, while maintaining the value and authenticity of the art of mudcloth itself. Past down from generations before, artisans of Western Africa have been producing this beautiful fabric for hundreds of years, and will continue to do so for years to come.



At J&O we carry an exotic-looking upholstery fabric reminiscent of this African mudcloth design. This is a wonderful upholstery that will lend an ethnic flavor to your home.



Check out our Mud Cloth print Upholstery here!

Check out our full selection of African Fabrics here!


Batik
Batik is a wax resist process that is thousands of years old. Practiced in parts of Africa and the South Pacific, this textile art consists of the application of layers of wax and thickened dye applied to white cloths to create a desired design.


There are two kinds of batiks, hand drawn batiks and stamped batiks. Hand drawn batik designs are drawn or painted in beeswax by hand. A tool called a canting is used to apply the wax. The canting consists of a small copper cup with a spout through which melted wax can flow out onto the cloth. The cup is mounted on a wooden or rattan handle. The size of the spout and the number of spouts may vary for different functions.
The design is drawn on the cotton fabric with a pencil. The cloth is tacked onto a wooden frame. Then taking the canting tool, the artist dips into the melted wax and begins applying it to the cloth. Once they have outlined the design, they pour on the first dye. Then the artist applies the second coat of wax, painting with wax the areas to be saved. They start with the lightest colors working toward the darkest colors waxing the front and back and the front again for each new dye color used. When they are finished with this process, they put the fabric in boiling water and melt the wax off.

In Ghana, the designs are created from hand cut stamps made from rubber, foam or wood. The utilization of traditional Adinkra symbols and popular prints that date back to the Akan culture create beautiful one of a kind patterns that are widely used and sought after still today. Various batik arts can be found on garments, home furnishings and accent pieces, as well as in bedding and wall tapestry.

Today, batik arts are often seen on the streets of America. They can be found on unisex garments, home furnishings and accent pieces, as well as in bedding and wall tapestry. The old patterns are being replaced by imaginative designs of all sorts, and batik is now made into many different kinds of beautiful clothing and decorative household items.The trend today is to decorate the fabric in whatever way the artist wants. Some have even incorporated the art of tye & dye for an extra special affect.



Check out our Batiks here!

Check out our selecton of African Fabrics here!


Indigo Dyed Cloth
Traditionally the main ingredient used in indigo dying is dried balls of crushed leaves from indigo bearing plants and ash. The cloth is dipped repeatedly in the blue fermented dye, exposed briefly to the air, and then reimmersed. The number of dippings and the strength and freshness of the dye determines the intensity of the resulting color.


After the dyed cloth is dried, it is customary to beat the fabric repeatedly with wooden beaters. This process presses the fabric and creates a shiny glaze. Each print is as different and as creative as the last. Whether created on light weight cotton or heavy, napped cotton, the process is the same. The look …beautifully unique.


African Waxed Prints


Wax printing has been a tradition in Ghana, West African for decades. To this day, these beautifully depicted and intricately designed fabrics are considered prestigious and hold a high social value in some circles. The most popular designs are often named after a particular event, significant animal or aspect of nature, or cultural symbol. An example would be Gyne Nyme, in which the design references the Adinkra symbol representing the Omnipotence of God. Wearing this cloth acts as a cloak of protection and respect for the Creator of man.


Artistically symbolic and uniquely designed on 100% cotton, waxed print cloths play an important role in daily life and have significant communicative value; indicating status or wealth and conveying messages as a means of non-verbal expression.

Traditional African textiles and dress have always carried symbolisms, and as a result, have become powerful vehicles for mass communication, ceremonial events, political stances, and social purposes as well. An example is a cloth featuring the proverb " Weni behu naaso w'ano enntumin nnka" ("Your eyes can see, but your mouth can not say"), which means that not all issues are suitable for public discussion.


They are worn by men, women and children alike. As the fabric has made its way into the mainstream market, it has become more common to see them used in lifestyle pieces, making them a cultural, yet fashionably stylish fabric as well.


Vibrant in color with a soft suttle shine, waxed African prints are ideal for all manner of creative textile projects. They can be seen in crafts, house decor, bedding and home accent pieces and accessories. Some are printed with a metallic accent for a more elegant look and feel.


Celebrate Black History Month all year long by bringing a little bit of African-American culture home for your next craft project today. With our African print fabrics you can go from Mt. Kilimanjaro to the Great Pyramids of Egypt in the comfort of your own home!
Find out more about the Golden Fawohodies African print here!

Find out more about the Dweni Ni MMen African print here!

Check out our full selection of African Wax & Metallic Fabrics here!

Check out our selection of Brocades here!










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Friday, January 18, 2008

Top 10 Coolest Fabric Inventions


When we think about fabrics, most of the time our minds don’t reach past the aesthetical aspect of the material. We think about the way a fabric looks and feels. We see its color and texture and how it falls on our bodies. We see how we can mold and shape this collection of fibers into a fabulous garment, or recreate the décor of a home into a magical oasis. But how much thought do we give to its beginnings and the many qualities that make these fabrics the wonderfully warm, lightweight, form fitting, washable, durable and absorbent materials that they have portrayed themselves to be?

Well, I took a little time to do just that. And I came up with a few inventions in the fabric world that stood out as some of the coolest thus far.


Here is my list of the Top 10 Coolest Fabric Inventions and a brief explanation why. Maybe you have your own list of fabulous fabrics to share with our viewers too. If so, we’d love to hear from you.



1. Linen Blends

I love linen. I love the look & feel of this natural fabric, as well as its durability and breathability. But like most of us, I could do without all the wrinkles and dry cleaning bills it creates. It seems it can’t always be machine washed & dried without shrinking. But with the blends, the linen is strengthened, it’s washable, more wrinkle resistant, and carries a nicer drape. All without sacrificing the very aesthetics that attracted it to me in the first place.

With the linen blends I don't have to worry about how my outfit will look at the end of the day, or if I am packing for a trip, I can throw one or two versitile pieces in my suitcase and just do a light touch up with the iron before I step out for the night.

2. Cotton Gauze
There is no better fabric for staying cute and cool in the hot summer sun than cotton gauze. This natural & breathable fabric offers a lightweight look, feel and coverage. Because it is essentially cotton, it dries quickly, holds dyes with ease and makes great garments, drapery and lounge wear. These characteristics are appealing when designing carefree garments for a lifestyle that embraces daily living in warm climates.


Poly fleece goes by many different names: polar fleece & winter fleece to name two. Basically it is a man-made, 100% polyester fiber material. It’s been around for some time and it is one of the great inventions for warm winter coverage. Fleece is soft & comfortable, retains heat well, and has an excellent weight-to-insulation ratio, making it light enough for carrying, yet warm enough for cold conditions. The polyester material of fleece helps to pull moisture away and keep you dry at the same time. It also dries quickly and still insulates when wet.

We usually find this material in our coats, slippers, winter hats & gloves. The fabric makes great throws and if it is a top shelf fleece, it can easily be thrown in the wash for good-as-new use time after time. I love that I can snuggle myself up in this wonderful fabric for a warm and restful sleep on those cold winter nights.


4. Hemp/Bamboo & Other Organic Fabrics


I grouped this category together because I love the idea of using naturally occuring, raw materials given to us by mother nature and utilizing it for garmenting our bodies and homes.

The fact that nature-made fibers are more harmonious with our bodies appeals to me on many different levels. Think about it. Wouldn't you want a fabric draped on you or your children to be breathable like your skin, void of synthetics and chemicals. And have that same fabric allow for a fashionable look and feel as well. Is there any question why this would be on my Top 10 List? Cool.
5. Spandex

Spandex was invented in 1959 by Du Pont, and when it hit the fashion market in the 80’s, it hit with a storm. An elastic type fiber that could be stretched many times its length and then spring back to its original length without losing its shape. A material that could hold you in in all the right places, and is more resistant to washing, perspiration and heat than latex. This was the miracle material for full figured women & athletes abound. And it’s still used and sought after today. It is one of the main materials used in foundation garments and hosiery as well.

6. Wool

Wool is a natural material, which is always appealing to me, and can vary from a thick and nappy texture to a soft and lightweight one. Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. It is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and in many weaves, resists wear and tearing. I love the idea of being able to use what mother nature gave us, to create garments and goods to garnish our bodies and homes. View our wool fabrics.


7. African Prints

Where can you find a fabric that tells a story or holds such symbolism as with African printed fabrics. Whether it be on mudcloth, ashoke, kente, kuba cloth or cotton, the uniqueness and creativity is the same. Often times the fabrics were woven & designed by hand, using natural materials. Through ancient tradition, the color, technique and art surrounding the creation and inspiration of the fabrics had a purpose and meaning. Naturally occuring fibers & dyes are often used, offering a harmonious union between flesh and fabric. History continues into the present, and culture continues to be expressed this way. Colorful and lively patterns and prints are not only found in traditional attire, but also on high fashion runways, specialty boutiques and garnishing home interiors furnishings as well.

8. Dorlastan

Dorlastan is the spandex fiber produced by Bayer Inc. It is lightweight and soft, but stronger and more durable than rubber. Dorlastan can be stretched over 500% repeatedly without breaking, and still recover its original length. It provides lightweight freedom of movement in mens, womens and childrens apparel. It’s used in athletic apparel, bathing suits, foundation garments, tights, surgical hose and slacks.
This is a fairly new but widely used material. It’s really cool because it can stretch to such a degree and just bounce back to its original size while still offering a comfortable fit and feel. As a designer and seamstress, this characteristic is appealing when selecting fabric to make one-size fits-all garments and accessories.

9. Suede cloth

Suede cloth is a synthetic made from 100% polyester. It is very resilient, quick drying, resistant to biological damage such as mold and mildew, easy to wash, and able to hold forms well. Suede cloth is a great imitation fabric. It’s also a fun fabric to play with when designing because it allows you to create garments and accessories that have the look and feel of suede, without the animal bi-products.

10. Textured Vinyl

Like suede cloth, textured vinyl fabric is also a synthetic material. It is pliable, durable and easy to maintain. It is a great imitation fabric that has the look and feel of leather without the animal bi-product. This is another fun fabric to play with when designing garments and accessories for those who are looking for a modern or traditional leathered look. I listed this as one of my top 10 coolest fabrics simply because of the ingenuity of the designer to create a material that mimics actual leather asthetically so well.

So there you have it. My Top 10 Coolest Fabric Inventions. I am sure once you take a look at all we have to offer here at J&O, you'll have a list of your own that is twice as long. With new textiles created everyday, J&O will be your one stop fabric shop for all the latest materials into the next century.

Check out some of our new fabrics here.



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