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Tuesday, June 23, 2009

A History of Fabric



From ancient times the value of clothing has been an essential element in human culture. Over time textiles superseded animal skins as the primary means of clothing the body (notwithstanding certain dark corners of the Vegas Strip).

Early textile fibers commonly were flax – a fine linen – and felt, a textile produced by matting, pressing and condensing fibers. While most felt is currently manufactured out of synthetic materials such as acrylic, it initially made use of the wool produced by sheep.

Wool continued to be the dominant fiber from which European fabric was woven throughout the Greek and Roman ages. Both Greeks and Romans wore garments primarily made from the readily available source of wool. Additionally, linen and hemp were common fabric fibers. At the time silk and cotton were imported in available in small quantities to the elite that could afford them.

During the following medieval period European fabrics remained basic, with styles changing mildly with the arrival of new conquerors. Despite the distances and varying languages clothing across Europe remained generally uniform.

From late medieval times through the Renaissance

During the 13th century advances were made in the production of wool fabrics. More important changes were introduced by crusaders returning from the East with exotic fabrics. By the mid 14th century fashion was starting to take shape in Europe with the introduction of curved seams and the beginnings of tailoring. Advances in dyeing also were important factors in this regard.

Throughout Europe various fabric centers began to sprout. Broadcloth was a staple export of England, while the countries of the Mediterranean were a hub of silk production. Rich silk fabrics began in the fashions of the Italian upper classes and spread throughout the elite of Europe. Influences were apparent from farther afield as floral motifs common to China crept into European designs.

Once the Renaissance was underway further development took place as fashions began to distinguish themselves from country to country. The fashions of the German and Scandinavian states developed more or less independently from those of England and the Romance speaking countries. The ensuing centuries saw fabric designs and fashions becoming increasingly elaborate, although the means of production remained virtually unchanged.

Fabric and the Industrial Revolution

Great leaps in the manufacturing of fabric occurred during the Industrial Revolution. As the production of fabrics became more mechanized, new types of fabric – such as jacquards – became possible. Great Britain in particular was at the vanguard of textile machinery from the late 18th century. The Industrial Revolution for the first time made quality fabrics widely available at affordable prices.

Fabrics today

More than simply being a craft or art, the production of fabrics involves science. During the 20th century many of the most commonly used fabrics were based on synthetic fibers. Polyester, spandex, nylon and acrylic are all widely used fibers in the production of textiles. The addition of these synthetic materials have given fabrics greater colofastness and durability.

International influences

Trading along the Silk Road facilitated an exchange of textile influences between the Far East and the Mediterranean.

Since the 20th century textile designers and manufacturers have looked overseas for inspiration. From the Far East to Africa, many places have contributed to the diverse art of fabric. Kente fabrics and African designs in general have impacted textile design as have the batik fabrics of Indonesia. Toile designs commonly make use of Japanese or Chinese motifs. A Persian and Indian influence can be seen in the continued popularity of paisley designs.
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